Battery Replacement Guide
Application: See article below
Socket and combo wrenches
I am providing this write up for illustrative purposes only.
Perform at your own risk. Any mods (including this one) you perform on your
vehicle is your responsibility. Commercial use of this write up will result
in legal action.
This is one of those maintenance items that comes up from time to time and for whatever reason, starts a debate about correct battery sizes. The source of this information is Toyota's own website. I get it: there may be superior types of gel cells out there, but this guide is intended for most of you who prefer to stay with the stock battery size and prefer to do it yourself. But as always, double check to make sure you're buying the right size. This guide is intended to communicate this advice from the factory manual source.
Step 1: Removing the Hardware
This writeup assumes that you have made no modifications to the stock battery terminals, cables, or battery battery hold down bracket.
The battery hardware that needs to be removed include the ground and positive terminals as well as the battery hold down bracket that runs across the battery itself. Begin by removing the positive and negative battery terminals with the appropriate sized sockets. Next, loosen the double nut on the backside of the battery with two opposing combo wrenches. Wiggle the J hook out of the battery holder frame. Finally, remove the front bolt with a 8mm socket. Remove the battery hold down bracket and move out of the way. What I like to do at this point is to take that front bolt and rethread about 1/4 of the way back into the hole so as to not lose it (ask me how I know).
Lift and remove the battery.
Step 2: Buying and Replacing the Battery
To end all debates of what is the right size of battery to purchase, these images are off Toyota's own website. Look at your year and engine size to determine battery size (far right column):
So for my 1998 4Runner V6, I can purchase either 35 or 24F (Option in this case means Optional size). The 35 and the 24F will differ in cold cranking amps (CCA).
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