8mm, 10mm, and 12mm socket bits/wrench
Rachet wrench extension
Toyota Clutch Pedal Bushing: Part #90389-05017
This method is a great way to bypass the clutch bushing issue. Having had my clutch bushing break twice since the writing of this maintenance write up, I decided to give it a shot. I've personally found that it is more effective than constantly replacing the Toyota OEM bushing.
Please note that this solution is NOT Toyota's recommended solution, so please take that into consideration. To further reinforce that point, 4Runners.org does not make any representation to its safety, effectiveness, etc. Your results maybe different and by doing so, you assume all risks for its outcome.
Here is a link to the original Yotatech.com thread. I highly recommend that you read through the entire thread. You will gain valuable insight and figure out how to do it. Spring part numbers are also included within the thread, so go read and don't email me and ask me what part # spring you should buy, ok?
Ok, back to the original write up:
Talk about a repair that takes way too long for something so small. This repair is for 3rd generation 4Runner drivers with 5-speed transmissions. If you hear a squeaking sound every time you push on the clutch (or on the rebound), most likely what you are hearing is the sound of the clutch spring rubbing against the clutch pedal's u-shaped seat. Over time, the metal will start to wear and eventually cause the clutch pedal to become unusable. Thus, replacing the plastic (grrrr) clutch bushing will prevent this wear and tear and save you from buying another clutch pedal or assembly.
Note: This seemingly tiny repair took me about 2.5 hours to put that tiny bushing in, so you have been warned.
1: Making Some Room
In the engine bay, if you can remove the master cylinder nuts without moving the evap box out of the way, you got some mighty small hands. For the rest of us, you'll want to move the evaporator box out of the way. You do not have to completely remove it---just make some space for your hands. To remove it, unbolt two 8mm bolts shown here and a 8mm bolt (not shown) but its easy to find and remove. Also, you'll need to unhook some hoses. Make sure you mark the location of those hoses so you put them back in the right place:
Now, look inside and you'll see two harnesses that connect to the clutch pedal assembly. Remove both. One of them is a bit difficult to reach around and remove because the release tab faces towards the left side of the vehicle:
Next, remove the top 12mm bolt that holds the pedal assembly to the interior. It is located up top and is best removed with a 12mm socket on an extension. Once removed, go to the engine bay and remove the 12mm nuts located on either side of the master cylinder. These are a bit difficult to remove, but if you have a 12mm socket (long-type), it'll make the job alot easier:
You are now ready to remove the clutch pedal assembly.
3: Cleaning, Re-greasing, and Inserting the U-shaped Clutch Bushing
Visually inspect the U-shaped clutch seat, clean, and re-lube:
After lubing the clutch bushing seat, place the bushing inside and lube the entire assembly. Fricition is bad so extra lube will definitely help prolong the life of the plastic (grrrr!!!!) bushing. Now, place one end of the spring into the spring hole, seat the middle part of the spring in the clutch spring seat, and then use a lot of force to re-seat the entire spring. It look me about 3 tries to fully understand how much force was needed to re-seat it, so be forewarned.
You were still wearing your goggles, right?