Installing an Aftermarket Oil Filter Relocator Kit
By: Bob_98SR5
Written: 12/15/04
Revised: 12/31/16
Application: 1998 4Runner V6


Permacool Remote Oil Filter Relocator Kit
Aeroquip "Straight Connector" Adapter Fittings:
  - Size 8 to 3/8" NPT (Qty: 2)
  - Size 8 to 1/2" NPT (Qty: 2)
Aeroquip Socketless Hose Ends:
  - Straight Size 8 (Qty: 2)
  - 90 degree Size 8 (Qty: 2)
Aeroquip Socketless Hose (4 feet is enough)
Aeroquip socket vice adapter
Fence Bracket
Stainless steel bolts, lock washers and nuts

Tools & Supplies
Adjustable-head rachet (metric and SAE sockets)
Bench press (best) or drill (do-able)
Drill bits and tapping oil
Combo wrenches
Various short and long rachet extensions
Bench grinder
Eye protection


I am providing this write up for illustrative purposes only. Perform at your own risk. Any mods (including this one) you perform on your vehicle is your responsibility. Commercial use of this write up will result in legal action as well as the undying scorn from members of the online Toyota 4Runner community. You've been warned.

Addendum (12/31/16)
After about 4 years of usage, it became increasingly clear that rotating off the oil filter would over time loosen the Permacool engine side adapter. Thus it was an on again, off again battle tightening the mount, spending some time guessing how tightly to tighten down the oil filter, etc. The o-ring eventually tore and getting a replacement o-ring from Permacool ended up with zero results as communicated by a rude and unhelpful rep from Permacool. Therefore I do not recommend buying from Permacool. There are other similar brands that carry these pieces. I do however recommend Aeroquip. Very knowledgable and helpful reps.

The trick to getting these socketless hoses on is the following:

1. Buy the tool that holds the connectors
2. Buy the grease that is recommended for this type of socketless hose
3. Heat up the hose ends in boiling water until they are soft. I'm talking about 5 to 10 minutes.
4. Liberally apply the oil to the socket end and inside the socket hose
5. Press the hose onto the connectors. If they are not easily sliding on, you
need to put them in the hot water again


I installed a Permacool oil filter relocator kit because I really don't enjoy changing my oil in its stock location. Also, I don't like the placement of the current oil filter. Usually, I reach in through the driver's side wheel well and pull out the filter. But always, because the filter is inverted at a downward's angle, oil always spills out and if you're not careful pulling it out, you can drop it onto the skid plate. Sometimes it can be a pain and I was getting tired of "sometime".

The Permacool filter relocator kit will enable me to do two things: relocate the filter for easier access as well as allowing me to use a larger filter. Of course, you don't have to install a relocator kit to use a larger filter, but this just makes it that much easier. In conjunction with using synthetic motor oil and larger oilfilters, I can run this oil for up to 25,000 miles or 1 year and only need to change the filter every 6 months (or 12,500 miles). I'll save money in the process too.

As is the case with my oil pressure gauge writeup, special thanks again goes out to Jsharp (Jim). Jim's advice was especially needed for this writeup.

Last note: if you're planning to do the oil pressure gauge mod and this mod, it's best to do the oil pressure gauge mod *first*, but do not install the sender. It will only get in the way of much needed space.

Step 1: Prep Work

Remove the skid plate by removing the seven 12mm bolts. You may need an extension to access all the bolts. Now drain your existing oil, remove the oil filter as shown in my oil change writeup, and then clean off the surface of the oil filter area. After all the oil has drained, bolt down the oil plug.

Remove the seven 12mm bolts (B) from the skid plate to remove   You are looking at the oil filter and pump area as seen through the left front wheelwell. Spray the rusted 8mm plug (A2) with PB Blaster. (A1) is the plug to the oil pump discharge port and (S) is the stock low oil pressure sender

Step 2: Understanding How The Parts Fit Together
Refer to the diagram below. In short, there are several adapters, hose ends, and hoses that need to be connected together. Reference all the hose and adapter connection type and numbers. These parts will be connecting the new oil filter mount and the engine adapter itself:

As you can see here, you will need to connect adapters to the actual Engine Adapter itself and then connect Hose Ends to the adapters. On the other end, it's the same process, but its best to just connect the hoses to the hose ends first. Once done, you can connect the hose ends to the adapters and then get started on assembling your relocator system. More on that later. But first, you will need to create a sturdy bracket for your oil filter mount to mount it inside your engine bay.

Now before you ask, I'll pre-empt you: While it would be much easier to just bolt it inside the wheel wheel, I just can't stand the idea of having the filter so visible and accessible to the idiots of the world. All it takes for some punk to ruin your engine is to unscrew that filter and let you drive along your merry way.

Step 3: Creating a Bracket
After consulting with JSharp, I decided to copy his right angle bracket idea. While I was not able to find an identical bracket, I did find something very similar and very sturdy in Home Depot's fence aisle. It's a steel Stanley fence bracket. It even has pre-drilled holes.

First, remove the battery by unhooking the battery cables. Move the battery and the tray out of the way for more room. Next, eyeball a good location for your bracket. For mine, I wanted to utilize at least one of the holes with my bracket's holes. I aligned the pre-existing hole and then I made some cut marks with a Sharpie in the bracket itself.

Here's the space where you'll mount the bracket. Notice the battery has been removed   Black mark on bracket denotes a cut line. The bracket will need some serious grinding to make it fit

Regarding the last point, the battery's weight is reinforced by some "wavy" metal that is welded onto the inner body itself (see pic above). These get in the way of the holes. Thus, you'll have to trim some of your bracket away in order to allow the bracket to fit underneath the wavy support metal.

To do this, there was quite a bit of trial and error---and a lot of cutting and grinding. I finally used my bench grinder to grind away at the bracket until it looked like the pic below.

Next, in order to make sure the bracket would stay in place and support the weight of the oil filter and mount, I needed to drill another hole in the metal. So place your bracket in place and then stick the bolt through and secure it at the other end. Go to your fender wheel well and then use your Sharpie to mark the hole. Use a drill press (best) to drill a nice, clean hole. Also regarding the bracket itself, the bracket length is pretty long and so it needs to be trimmed, but do this after you've mounted the oil filter mount onto the bracket in the next step.

This is a shot from the wheel well. The bolt protruding from hole (2) is the only bolt than can be fitted through the test-fitted bracket (other side). You will have to mark a hole (1) with a sharpie and drill that out from the bracket   After drilling the hole, test fit holes 1 and 2 with a bolt and nuts on the other side. Note how the top edge and left side of the bracket has been seriously grinded to fit all the waves and curves inside this area

Step 4: Modifying the Orientation of the Oil Filter Mount on the Bracket
Because I want to use larger oil filter, I needed to offset the filter at an angle. Otherwise, mounting it perfectly vertical makes the bottom of the oil filter hit the frame rail.

Like the filter bracket itself, I wanted to utilize at least one of the stock holes on the bracket itself and the oil filter mount. See the diagram below:

As mentioned above, the oil filter mount does not sit parallel to the bracket---it sits at an angle. Keeping with the "utilizing one hole" principle, I secured that one hole into the bracket's hole with a nut and bolt and then used a Sharpie to mark the second hole for drilling. After marking, remove the oil filter mount and take your bracket to your drill press for drilling. Test fit and then move onto the next step.

Test fit without the filter   Test fit with the long Amsoil SDF-34 filter. Note: the filter is NOT touching the radiator hose

Step 5: Connecting the Engine Adapter Parts and Hoses
First, install the rubber O-ring to the underside of the engine adapter. Don't forget this very crucial step. Next, wrap about 2-3 wraps of teflon tape around both straight adapters. Use a crescent wrench to wrench in these adapters into the engine adapter. Next, wrap about 2-3 wraps of teflon tape around the exposed ends of the adapters that you just mounted. Finish by wrenching down the vertical hose ends to them.

For the socketless hoses, do a test fitting by running the hoses from end to end. Take the measurement and then cut about an inch or two more just to be safe. My hoses ran around 16 to 17 inches.

After figuring out the proper length of hose, liberally douse the hose ends and the inner portion of the hoses with Aeroquip's lubrication fluid or 5W-30 oil. Insert the hose over the hose ends and get ready for the time of your life---these son's-a-b###hes are TOUGH to get on. To save yourself a lot of pain and heartache, bite the bullet and buy Aeroquip's vice adapter. Use boiling water to get the hoses malleable before applying the lubrication fluid. See the pics below.

This pic below on the left represents my first effort. As you can see there is a gap (G) on both hoses. If it looks this way, restart and do over. It should look like the pic below on the right:

Teflon coat and wrench down the threads on adapter (A); repeat for Hose End (H). Secure hoses (B) and try to avoid gaps (G).   Here's the vice adapter. Also notice there's no gap. To avoid gaps, you need to soak the hoses in boiling water to make the rubber more maleable. Apply the fluid and then push the hoses onto the fitting.

Now each side of the engine adapter is marked either "IN" or "OUT". So for the "IN" side of the hose (engine adapter side), mark on the other end of the hose with the word "OUT". For the hose attached to the "IN" side of the engine adapter, mark the other end of the hose with the word "IN". That way you easily know on the other end, which side to connect it to.


Now after attaching the engine adapter side hoses, move onto the oil filter mount hoses. First, remove the test-fitted bracket and oil filter mount from the inside of your engine bay. Next, spin off the oil filter and then remove the oil filter mount from the bracket. Following the same process for teflon taping and wrenching down the adapters and hose ends. The best order and process in my opinion is to wrench down the adapters to the oil filter mount, connect the hoses to the hoses, and then bolt down the bracket itself (not including the oil filter mount) to the engine bay.

Step 6: Mounting the Engine Oil Adapter and Oil Filter Mount
First, turn your wheels to the left so as to allow some more room to access your front wheel well. Next, stick in the engine oil adapter through the wheel wheel flap and get it to the general location of the OEM oil filter mount. Check to see that O-ring gasket is firmly seated within it and then screw in the engine oil adapter until very snug. Since the hose is thick, you'll probably need to assist it while turning and screwing in the engine oil adapter.

Here's the mounted adapter with hoses running through the engine wheel well   Here is the engine oil adapter tightened down (E). The large brass item (O) is my aftermarket oil sender

After screwing the engine oil adapter down, push the hose ends through and route them up towards the top and alongside the alternator. JSharp routed them behind a wire bundle but I chose not to. Now that you have them in position, teflon tape the adapters on your oil filter mount and then wrench down the hose ends to it. After doing so, bolt down the entire oil filter mount to the bracket.

Route the hoses upwards and towards the front of the engine bay (R)  

Step 7: Re-Oiling and Testing
First, fill your oil filter with motor oil and then connect it to the oil filter mount. Of note, you may be suprised at how much oil can be stored inside the larger filter. I was almost able to put a whole quart in the Amsoil SDF-34 oil filter. Next, pour 5 quarts into the oil receptacle. Check your dipstick to make sure that there is sufficient oil within the acceptable range (marks) on the dipstick.

Ok, now for the big moment: fire it up! If you did everything right, there should not be any leaks. The one place where I found a leak was the oil filter and oil filter mount. I did not have it screwed down as hard as it should have. I guess that was years and years of "hand tightening with a quarter twist".

Rant: Permacool (lack of) customer service

First, I must have to make a huge criticism of Permacool's customer service. My rubber O-ring was slightly torn and I did not want to use it for that reason. Thus, I gave them a call. They transferred me to a gentlemen who quite bluntly stated that "we don't send out replacement'll be able to find those O-rings at a local auto parts store". I even offered to come down to their plant and pay for it too, but my offer was refused. Lame.

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