Rear Mount - Firestik II Antenna
Tools & Supplies
3lb hand "sledge" hammer
Drill and drill bits
Firestik Hood Channel Mount (or comparable mount)
Firestik II antenna
Spring adapter mount
Quick-release adapter mount
Rubber donut (optional)
Bungee-type cord (optional)
I am providing this write up for illustrative purposes only. Perform at
your own risk. Any mods (including this one) you perform on your vehicle
is your responsibility. Furthermore, commercial use of this write up is
prohibited---all images and text are property of 4Runners.org. Linking or
copying any portion of this write up will result in legal action as well
as the undying scorn from members of the online Toyota 4Runner community.
You've been warned.
Addendum (12/31/16): Since creating this mod, I've seen different companies and individuals copy my creation which is sorta cool. However from use in the field, I've learned that transmission and reception using this mount and the antenna location is less than optimal. Therefore I wouldn't recommend anyone follow this approach unless this is your last option. After trying 4x4Mike's Wilson magentic antenna mount, the reception and range difference was night and day. I would therefore recommend going with a roof mounted magnetic mount.
This write up is an "adjustment" to my original installation
of my Cobra
75 CB and Firestik II write up which was mounted on a Firestik Hood
Channel mount. While the hood channel mount worked perfectly, quite frankly
it was an eye sore. In addition, driving with the antenna mounted on a
spring mount at highway speeds was a scary experience---the antenna would
sway backwards and at times, sway in all directions.
After seeing a picture of a member who posted his rear mounted Firestik
antenna on his Tacoma Doublecab (forgot his name already), I was inspired
to do the same. Being the cheap ass that I am, I decided to see if I could
recycle the existing parts and make it work. Being the MacGyver that I
can be sometimes, I'm proud to say it worked. :) Read on.
Note: I've documented this write up and assumed that you've installed
your hood channel mount like I did.
Step 1: The Making of a Rear-Mount
Take your Firestik hood channel mount and put it in your vice. Crank that
vice until the hood channel intersection (B) is flattened out. If it is
not perfectly straight, take your mini-sledge hammer and pound out the
mount until it is completely straight:
is a pic of the original hood mount. You will need to completely flatten
out the 90 degree bend (B)
what the hood channel mount should look like after you straighten
Step 2: Removing the Paneling
To remove the driver's side bottom panel, remove the four 10mm bolts.
Next, remove the bottom driver's side kick panel pull it towards you.
Next, unscrew the driver's side front and rear kick step panels.
remove part (A), remove the four 10mm bolts. Panel (B) posts right
out. Kick panel (C) will simply unscrew and can be pulled out
rear step panel can be unscrewed easily and be pulled out . Unscrew
Step 3: Preparing the Rear Mount
You will need to run the coax through the body of your rear hatch
area. Also, you will need to drill into a small portion of the rear hatch
area to mount your 'new' antenna mount. Start by using your calipers to
determine the diameter of your coax cable. Then drill an appropriate sized
hole in area shown below. Insert your rubber grommet.
Next, put your 'new' antenna mount against the area shown below (left
picture) and mark your pilot holes. Drill your pilot holes, put a little
loctite on your self-tapping metal screws and screw in.
is the approximate size of the area where you will be mounting the
a hole and insert your rubber grommet
your pilot holes. The original hood channel mount only has three screws.
Thus, I drilled/screwed 3 holes. If I were to do it again, I'd drill
Step 3: Running and Repairing the Coax
At the interior plug end of the coax cable, cut the coax as close
to the end as possible. Discard the plug end. Open your hood and then
pull the coax cable through the firewall and into the engine bay. Take
the coax cable, reattach the end to your new rear antenna mount and run
the cut end through your rear hatch area grommet. Run the cable under
the carpet, under the step panels, and back to the cb cable box.
a shot of the original cb coax connector. Cut at interesection (A)
is the antenna coax end connected to the antenna mount
have to repair and reattach a new coax plug connector. Begin by carefully
slicing the black protective cable down about 1.5 inches and remove the
covering. Next, pull the braided copper wires outwards---it should look
like a lion's mane. Next, cut the plastic white cover down about a half
inch down from the top. Next, affix the new connector down and screw it
down. You should have some frayed ends poking out. Cut those ends with
a pair of scissors. Solder the tip and then you're done. Finish by screwing
it into the cable box.
Step 4: Mounting Your Antenna - Usage Notes
Mounting the antenna, of course, is an easy thing to do. However,
the antenna will get in the way of opening and closing the rear hatch.
Thus, a quick-release or a spring mount must be used in conjuction with
your new rear mount.
to use the quick release mount when driving on the highways. It is much
stable than a spring mount. Then when I get to my off-road destination,
I will use the spring mount. I also attach a bungee-type cord to the antenna
and to the top of my roof rack to avoid the predictable swaying of the
or feedback? Email me and I'll try to get back to you. If this article
helped you save time, money or just made things more convenient for
you, please consider donating to keep this site alive.